You can read about our previous motorcycle adventures in France, Northern Spain, and Portugal. For this leg of the journey, our itinerary went like this:
After crossing the border back into Spain, our first stop was Sevilla. We had a couple of reasons for heading there: we needed a new tire for the bike, and a big city like Sevilla would make it easier to find the specific brand and model we wanted: Michelin’s newest Anakee3. Our last tire, the Anakee2, had endured a lot, taking us from Romania to North Cape in Norway, back south to Italy, and even clocked a few extra thousand miles courtesy of a friend. It lasted over 15,000 miles. We didn’t want to venture into Morocco with an old tire.
BF’s Moroccan visa only allowed for a two-week visit, so we aimed to enter Morocco on his first day.
After arriving in Sevilla, we searched for garages but none had our tire in stock. They could order it, but it would take another day. Tired from searching, by the end of the day we decided to order the tire and wait. In hindsight, we should have ordered it immediately and enjoyed more of Sevilla. The city is amazing, boasting a beautiful historic center that we absolutely loved.
During our stay, we experienced the local tapas culture, visiting several places in one night. We ordered various snacks and drinks, moving from one place to another. It was during this time that BF discovered his love for sangria—a delightful mix of red wine, orange juice, fresh fruits, and fizzy water.
The next day, we spent at the workshop getting the new tire fixed. Despite the premium price—over $200 for the tire, installed and balanced—it was worth not having to DIY. Afterwards, we drove to Tarifa, stopping in Cádiz for seafood paella and ice cream. Cádiz was the only town where we got completely lost due to its unique strip of land with seafronts on both sides. Navigating it was tricky and finding the bike after lunch took us about an hour.
We arrived in Tarifa too late to catch the ferry, so we stayed overnight, which gave us the chance to enjoy more sangria.
The fast ferry from Tarifa to Tangiers takes about an hour, or two if you count customs. It costs over $200 for two people and the bike. Upon disembarking in Tangiers, a dozen guys immediately approached us to “help” with the bike registration. Knowing better, we filled out the form ourselves and handed it to a real policeman. After some waiting, we were cleared to go.
Our first Moroccan stop was Tétouan, known for its traditional old town where trades are still organized by street—jewelry, ironsmiths, fishmongers, and so on. BF found the narrow, dusty streets overwhelming, so we quickly moved on to end the day in Chefchaouen, the “blue city.” Nestled high in the mountains, it’s a spectacular sight with every house painted in a different shade of blue. Although the hotel was basic and uncomfortable, we appreciated the uniquely charming atmosphere.
Continuing south through the mountains, we enjoyed mild weather and rugged landscapes. As we climbed higher, it got colder—perfect for driving and sleeping.
After another long day of driving, we reached the Sahara desert, where temperatures soared back to 100 degrees (35-40 Celsius). The desert was more developed than I remembered from ten years ago. We filled the tank in Rissani, just in case, but later found out there was a gas station in Merzouga, our destination, which sits at the feet of some impressive sand dunes.
In Merzouga, we explored the dunes on camelback and watched a beautiful sunset. I wanted to stay to watch the stars, but our guide was too worried about us getting lost, so he refused.
The desert sky was breathtakingly clear, and the silence was profound. It’s said that some people find such silence unsettling, but for us, it was peaceful and awe-inspiring. The desert was one of the highlights of our trip. Feeling confident, we decided to drive to Marrakesh in one day. The roads, though good, are mostly single-lane and restricted to 50 mph. The last section through the Atlas Mountains took us longer than anticipated, and we struggled to find an open hotel as it was off-season. Finally, we found a place with a kitchen that served us dinner, including Moroccan wine, which was a pleasant surprise.
Marrakesh, BF found too touristy and crowded, so we didn’t linger. Parking was challenging, and as a former resident of Morocco, I didn’t enjoy the tourist treatment. So, we quickly moved on to Essaouira.
Essaouira, a coastal town with a laid-back atmosphere, charmed us with its old center. We found a beautiful hotel in the heart of the city and spent the next three days relaxing, enjoying fresh seafood, and savoring the slower pace.
Traveling along the scenic coastal road to Casablanca, we were stopped by police for speeding. They attempted to fine us $120, far more than the official $40 fine. After a tense exchange, which involved me taking photos of the corrupt officer, we got away without paying the extortionate amount.
In Casablanca, we visited Rick’s place, a restaurant modeled after the bar from the movie Casablanca, complete with a piano player and waiters in costume. It was a nostalgic visit for me, as I used to live in the city.
We continued our journey north along the coast, passing through Rabat and other sights, before concluding our Moroccan adventure. Despite the country’s vibrant culture and beauty, it was a relief to return to the comfort and familiarity of Europe.
Next, we headed back to Andalucia and the Mediterranean coast of Spain.